Fall 2022 Master Gardener Training

Personal Address: I think a major misconception about Master Gardeners is two-fold

First, for those that aren't aware of what we are, people tend to think (based predominantly on the name of our organization alone) that we're hyper-knowledgeable about plants; literal "Masters", if you will. Which is, admittedly, a misconception that I myself had before I actually met a couple Master Gardeners myself and finally learned what they properly are.

Some are more knowledgeable than others in our ranks, absolutely; you're going to get that with any group of people- and each of us brings in unique focuses and specialties (I'm an Herbalist and a prior Civilian Conservationist, for instance; another member of our group owns a Tree Farm!) ... But we're not hyper-knowledgeable or actual gardening "masters" of any sort. We're all just Extension Office Volunteers in the end. Our job, as Volunteer Workers, is focused around education dissemination and community outreach and aid. While most of us are avid gardeners and this leads us to become Extension Volunteers in the first place, there's no real level of knowledge required to actually become a Master Gardener*.

Secondly, for those that are aware that we're just Volunteer Workers, they make the mistake of believing that means we have no real knowledge- which isn't true, either. Hence the asterisk in the above statement. Because to join the Master Gardeners, you do have to take an education course through an appropriate University, which is taught by legitimate field professionals and Professors- at the end of which you do have to pass a qualifying exam ... But honestly, it's just a basic / foundational education program. And while the quality of that education varies from State to State, County to County, and from University to University- as does its focus (Oklahoma, for instance, focuses heavily on Agricultural education in our training)? You do still have to undergo it in the first place.

So we're not unknowledgeable just because we're Volunteers ... You just don't have to be a learned professional, some kind of plant savant, have any kind of prior experience, or any of that prior to signing up. You literally just have to like plants and want to volunteer in your community- and be willing to fork over the cash for the training in instances where the courses are paid (not all are; those that are, are often relatively inexpensive for the amount of training and materials you receive, all things considered).

I paid $120 for my course last year, for instance. The incoming class this year will pay $150 instead. For us, in our particular program, that money goes towards paying for the books you need, additional printouts given to you during every class (plus a thickkkkk binder to keep those printouts in), travel expenses for the professors and professionals who guest lecture, and for the lunches they provide us during class.

While I haven't recently had the greatest time as a Master Gardener myself specifically because of a couple members of my community that I'm not a fan of the behavior of (which says nothing about the Master Gardeners themselves as an organization; only my local community members who have chosen to join) ... I do still really wish more people not only knew about the program, but also at least gave it a chance; there are so many people who take our training courses but rarely actually join the Master Gardeners here- and I'm sure other Counties and States have similar problems. But we could really use the hands to shake things up. Especially people of younger ages who are out of school, maybe in College now, but who don't have the commitment of a family just yet.

⇒ Oklahoma State University Master Gardener Manual E-1034 ⇐

Class 1: Introduction to Plant Biology; Aggregate Notes

Extension Offices are divided up into State, Area, and County.

County Extension Offices in particular have a varied set of duties that are often directly dictated by the needs of the Counties in which they are located, and the funds available from that County. This may include directing Family & Consumer Science programs, 4-H Programs, Horticulture and Agricultural education programs, Country Fair booths, and more.

Regardless of what programs they may be involved in, or what services they may offer, at what levels: The ultimate purpose of any Extension Office of any level is to extend their knowledge- and the developments and knowledge of Land Grant Universities- to the public through both professionals and Volunteer services.

Land Grant Universities (or Extension Universities) are public colleges that were meant to teach common and practical agriculture and livestock, science, military science, engineering, and related fields of knowledge to the common people as part of the Agricultural Revolution.

Oklahoma has three Land Grant Universities:

• Oklahoma State University ᴹʸ ᵀʳᵃⁱⁿᵉʳ
• Langston University
• College of the Muscogee Nation

The Master Gardener Program itself is an extension of the overall mission of County Extension Offices, and first originated with volunteers in the Carolinas; Master Gardeners provide volunteer Gardening and Agricultural consultation services to their surrounding communities.

[Redacted] County Master Gardeners in particular most often do community outreach; manage a Master Gardener show bed at the [Redacted] Botanical Garden; host Garden Walks; host the annual Herb Festival and Herb Sale, both; and more. Additionally, meetings for [Redacted] county Master Gardeners are held once monthly at [redacted] Botanical Garden (save for an annual picnic); you do not need to be a Master Gardner to attend the monthly meetings.

A State Conference is held yearly for all Master Gardeners in Oklahoma regardless of county serviced; the location changes each year.

There are no financial dues other than the initial cost for the required certification course. However, there is a minimum requirement of 20 hours of Community Volunteer Service, and 20 hours of Continuing Education, after certification, in order to maintain one’s status as a Master Gardener; these requirements can easily be met within 3 to 4 days in a year, but are flexible as long as the volunteer shows commitment.

"When Helping People, Identify Their 'Why' For doing Things First".

Class 1: Introduction to Plant Biology; Poison Ivy Exposure

Immediately after exposure (or as closely after as possible), scrub exposed skin down fully with mild, soapy water and a microfiber cloth, using strong scrubbing. Rinse thoroughly.

This will not fully prevent contraction, but should significantly reduce the severity by removing the impacting oils from the skin.

Class 1 Sublecture: Composting

Composting is not actually fertilizer; though it does increase soil nutrition, its true purpose is to reduce waste, build soil structure, and improve soil ecology.

Almost anything can be composted and yet 50% of produced home and yard waste that winds up in landfills is compostable materials. Yard waste itself significantly increases between 50% to 80% from march to October; both Home and Yard waste could be better directed to Composting- extending the lifespan of Landfills, regenerating soil, and ultimately reducing consumer costs instead.

Browns = Carbon. This consists of Cellulose; Dried and Woody material, Straw, Hay, Cardboard, etc.

Green = Nitrogen. This consists of Lignin; Aqueous material, Food Waste, Grass Clippings, etc.

Never Compost infected, diseased, moldy, etc, plant material or it may spread the illness to other plants in your garden.

Cold, or "Static Composting" is the act of piling compostable materials and leaving for a year before sifting. It is the oldest method of Composting and requires greater pickiness of materials; a good Cold Compost ratio is 3:1 Carbon (Browns) to Nitrogen (Greens).

Hot, or "Active Composting" requires smaller particles, regular moisture, and good air flow, plus the right 2:3 ratio of Nitrogen (Greens) to Carbon (Browns) in order to actively heat the Compost pile to between 100 and 140 degrees fahrenheit (considered "complete" each cycle when it naturally cools to 100 degrees and maintains that temperature even when turned). This allows the material to break down faster.

Mulching and Trenching organic matter are other options for those with less available space or time, which achieve the same ends and even return nutrients faster in some instances.

If Vermicomposting is desired instead, the most efficient Worms are Red Wigglers and Tiger Worms.

At minimum, realistically speaking, even the minimum Composting method will require at least 3ft of space, 6 hours of sunlight, a convenient way of adding material and water, and between 6 months to 1 year to cycle.

A compost pile should not smell if properly maintained. Strong odors from a pile indicates anaerobic action. Check airflow; if damp but cool, add additional woody materials. If dry, add water. If ammoniac, add any dry material.

Class 1 (Home Composting Sublecture) + Class 2 (Soil Ecology) + Class 4 (Herbaceous Ornamentals) + Class 5: (Turf Selection & Maintenance) + Class 6: (Vegetable Gardening): Fertilizers, Composting, and Ecology; Aggregate Notes

Roundup (Glyphosate) is not absorbed through bark and roots, but through leaves, and is non persistent in the soil.

Roundup is safe to use in your garden and yard, even if you have pets, as long as you use pure Glyphosate and use it appropriately according to the specific label instructions.

• We should do our best to protect our pollinators- and to that end it is always best to apply any Chemical Amendments (such as Fertilizers, Pesticides, Fungicides, etc) in the early morning or late evening in order to minimize pollinator impact as much as possible.
  
  
• Roundup (Glyphosate) does not directly kill Bees. However, it does actively create monocultures that reduce yields to unsustainable levels across vast swaths of land, reducing food supply significantly across all pollinator species.

Chemical Amendments aren’t bad so much as they are complex and require thoughtful application.

Research studies have shown that the Agricultural Sector is actually less responsible for issues such as fertilizer runoff and its ecological effects than initially believed. Instead, evidence shows that the improper home use of yard fertilizer and other Chemical Amendments in regards to ongoing yard maintenance in Urban, Suburban, and Rural areas- including among Urban Lawn Professionals- was the primary culprit.

People don’t read the labels and follow the directions thoroughly, and that’s what gets us into trouble and causes the vast majority of ecological damage.

Always assume that 20 to 30 years later, whatever is currently deemed safe will eventually be deemed unsafe, and don’t take the risk.

We enjoy the privilege of Chemical Amendments- but only so long as we are compliant with label use. The label is law and consistency is key.

Proper use of Chemical Amendments is 100% the responsibility of the applicator. If you are unwilling to be compliant and consistent with label use, then you have no business using (or even touching) chemical amendment products.

Soil testing should always be the first step, not just for initial lawn and garden establishment, but also for recovery and amendment procedures as well.

Applying any Chemical Amendments- but especially fertilizer- without first adequately testing the soil not only wastes time and money but also harms both the environment and your plants.

Organic Fertilizers and Composting is actually less cost efficient and is / are harder to control proper nutrient delivery with the necessary accuracy.

Composting is not actually fertilizer in the first place. Though it does increase soil nutrition its true purpose is to reduce waste, build soil structure, and improve soil ecology.

Class 3: Plant Pathogens and Preventative Management

Solutions such as Pesticides should be a last resort for any gardener if proper management techniques are followed to begin with, from the start.

During drought and other conditions, well managed gardens are high pest attractants due to high food availability and will thus require a more careful watch, higher maintenance, and better preventative measures during these periods to compensate as a result.

Over Fertilizing creates conditions for diseases (especially Fungal and Bacterial Infections) to flourish and can also cause soil salinization.

Liming your soil to increase PH level is not Fertilizer; you should only Lime your soil if you truly need it and your PH is getting too low to provide adequate plant nutrition.

Viruses will show on new growth, which Fungal and Bacterial infections will not. Fungal and Bacterial infections can be treated, and pests can be removed. But there is no cure for Viruses other than outright destruction of the plant- and no preventative measures other than simple good practice.

For Bacterial treatment, cut back at least 1 inch to 1 foot beneath the visible bacterial infection. Treat Fungal outbreaks by cutting back watering and using a Fungicide.

Fungicides and Bactericides are not curative, they are preventative. In all cases, prevention is the ultimate key.

Spacing plants well and avoid overcrowding. Likewise, water the soil, not the plants directly. You may take this one step further by also removing any unnecessary lower leaves on plants; staggering planting dates and alternating plant types as they are planted (rather than bulk planting in rows) can also help in reducing certain pests and pathogens as well.

Wash your tools in a bleach solution between pruning different sets of plants in order to further help prevent the spread of communicable disease and parasites.

If you don’t think prevention management really matters consider: You can pay $200 for a proper Fungicide treatment on a Tree (or) $10,000 for that tree’s removal when it gets killed.

Herbicides will kill both the parasite and its host plant and are not recommended for treating Parasitic Plant Attachments.

Soil Sterilization for Soil Parasites is only recommended as a very last resort when you have a legitimate problem resistant to all other treatment methods, as it will kill everything.

Opting for Disease Resistant varieties and cultivars whenever possible will help to improve your garden’s chances of fighting off Plant Pathogens.

Disease Resistance does not mean Disease Immunity. Significant disease pressure can still overpower disease resistance in host plants if the conditions are strong enough.

If disease does crop up, destroy diseased material; never replant the same varieties in the same locations if disease loss occurs.

Class 3: Plant Pathology; Remain (vs) Treat (vs) Remove

Not all Plant Pathogens are deadly. “Plant disease” is primarily defined as any condition which interferes with the intended function of a plant. Thus, not all Pathogens must actually be treated.

Therefore, the first step of disease identification and treatment is not only to determine the normal data of 1. What is normal for the plant itself; and 2. Whether the abnormality caused by the pathogen is deadly to the plant - but also A. What the plant’s intended function is in your garden; and B. Whether or not it interferes with that function.

Leaf spot on a vegetable plant, for instance, may not be a problem as long as it does not interfere with vegetable production itself- if vegetable production is the intended function of the plant.

If it is not deadly, and does not interfere with the function, treatment of the disease may not actually be necessary. Especially in the case of Annuals at the end of their season. Doing so may be a waste of time and effort, and can sometimes have unnecessary negative ecological impacts.

Non-Treatment does not, however, necessarily mean leaving the plant in tact and in place. You may remove infected limbs or leaves for appearance, remove the plant entirely, and so on- especially in the case that the Pathogen may spread to other plants in the vicinity or cause ecological damage.

The options of Remain (vs) Treatment (vs) Removal depends on function (vs) “quality of life” (vs) Intent (vs) Potential damage or hazard to surrounding plants and environment.

Class 3: Plant Pathology; Discussion on Peach Issues Overheard between Instructor and Another Student

Stone fruits are particularly difficult crops to grow in Oklahoma- Peaches, especially, in North-Central Oklahoma in particular.

Oklahoma’s variable freeze dates are the main culprit of crop failure in Stone Fruits; Stone Fruits are particularly susceptible to frost, and late cold fronts and heavy frosts are both common within Oklahoma and especially tend to be unpredictable in the North-Central region after trees have already flowered.

If you’re growing Stone Fruit and you get a good crop 3 out of 10 years, you’re actually doing well if you’re growing noncommercially. If you’re growing commercially and you get a good crop 6 out of 10 years, then you’re doing great. But with Peaches especially, you can do everything right and still not grow a good Peach here. Porter* is a strange exception

* Referring to Porter, Oklahoma- a town famous in the state for their ability to grow massive quantities of Peaches despite the struggle of the rest of the state to do so.

Class 3: Plant Pathogens; Instructor's Small Off-Topic Rant About Peat Moss

If you've ever watered a hanging plant and watched the water run out the bottom almost instantly, it's because the plant was likely planted in Peat Moss, or high PM quantity soil. And Peat Moss is a highly hydrophobic substance; it doesn't like water.

Peat Moss requires heat to absorb and retain water properly. But we do not produce enough ambient environmental heat to heat cool water in soil quickly enough; you must use already hot (very hot) water in order to water plants potted in Peat Moss properly. It wastes water and doesn't actually get your plants enough water otherwise.

Class 4: Herbaceous Ornamentals; Watering and Water Stewardship

Stewardship of water is often overlooked, but is an important part of gardening.

1 inch of watering a week (ideally in one application)- or a deep watering*- is the most recommended watering advice for gardeners. In hotter climates, or during increased temperature seasons, watering may need to be increased to 2 inches to 3 inches a week instead.

This is usually advised to be roughly 20 minutes of watering every second day- or every third day in low heat conditions.

* "Deep Watering" refers to water saturation at least 8 to 10 inches deep into the soil.

Water stewardship is best and easiest applied to gardening, first and foremost, through accurately measuring the amount of water being applied to your garden in the first place.

Knowing when to water is also important for water conservation and stewardship.

The best time to water plants for best plant health practice is in the mornings from 6 am to 10 am. However, this is also the peak time for City water use for citizen needs (showers, morning cooking, and so on).

Regardless of when you water, in all cases plants should not be watered again until they actually begin to show signs of actually needing more water*.

* “Signs of needing more water” does not always include wilting; wilting during the day is especially normal during high temperatures and drought conditions in order to protect the plants from sun damage and aid in necessary moisture retention- and is particularly common among Corn, Okra, and similar plants ... It is only a concern if the wilting continues into the later evening hours after temperatures have dropped.

That being said, every plant has a “permanent wilting point” from which it can no longer return, and permanent irreparable damage has occurred. Therefore wilting plants should still be kept a close eye on for additional signs of damage or other needs, and so on.

If ever in doubt, test soil moisture levels by pushing a finger all the way down into the soil, up to the metacarpophalangeal joint (the last knuckle where the hand and finger join). If the soil is dry, then consider watering.

Finally, you can also help water stewardship by choosing watering methods that will result in the least amount of water loss during application. In this case, avoiding overhead watering- and instead opting for something like a drip irrigation system- is the best option. This also has the added benefit of preventing splash back, which can spread fungal infections and other unwanted plant pathogens.

Class 5: Turf Selection & Maintenance; Benefits of Turf

While there are various culturally ingrained ideas about what turf, or lawn, should look like, which greatly limit the common socially acceptable definition of "Turf Grass" ... "Turf Grass" is defined as any grass- wild or cultivated- that can withstand routine mowing (simulated grazing) of between 1 and 3 inches, at least once monthly; and which can withstand regular foot traffic or other activities.

You can remove turf (especially if you do not want invasive grasses) but you do still need some kind of low growing grass that can withstand mowing.

Turf is not useless. It provides several benefits- including but not limited to:

• Erosion protection
• Soil stabilization
• Dust reduction
• Reduction of topsoil loss
• Noise control
• Glare reduction
• Safe recreational space
• Defensible space against pests
• Fire protection

Not all turf grasses are invasive. There are native grasses that qualify as turf grasses. Examples of native Oklahoma turf grasses include:

• Buffalograss (Bouteloua Dactyloides)
• Blue Grama (Bouteloua Gracilis)
• Sideoats Grama (Bouteloua Curtipendula)
• Inland Saltgrass (Distichlis Spicata)

Tall grasses that cannot withstand regular mowing are not turf grasses, nor are they adequate substitutes for turf replacement.

Class 5: Turf Management; Small Instructor Rant on "Weeds"

Weed: [N] A plant considered undesirable, unattractive, or troublesome, especially one that grows where it is not wanted or takes the place of desired plants.

Never characterize something as a "weed" without first determining if there is a valuable spot for that plant within the client's environment.

Class 5: Turf Selection & Maintenance; Two Takeaways From A Small Rant On Personal Responsibility Set Off By the “Roundup Debate”

1. Transparency is a personal responsibility of the Master Gardener. Furthermore, it is incumbent only to state the known facts and to never repeat misinformation or rumor.
   
   
2. It is also important to remember that the Extension and its volunteers are an educational resource, not an Enforcement Agency; we cannot force people to do things they do not want to do, nor to comply with the law.

Class 5: Turf Selection & Maintenance; Small Instructor Side Rant on the Misuse of Fact Sheets

Fact Sheets are written based on studies showing scientific evidence for best practice in median conditions. They are intended to get you started. Little failures, mistakes, and personal experience over time are far more valuable and should carry you past that.

Class 5: Turf Selection & Maintenance; Reconciliation Ecology

Reconciliation Ecology attempts to encourage ecological responsibility and increase biodiversity within- while still acknowledging and maintaining the Human utility needs of- the “Built World”.

The “Built World” is both compromised and full of compromises.

Class 4 (Herbaceous Ornamentals) + Class 6 (Vegetable Gardening) Raised Bed Gardening; Aggregate Notes

If you have bad soil in your area, or your soil is contaminated, you can "cheat" by growing in raised beds instead of bothering with soil remediation- which can be a long, expensive, and complicated process.

Using garden soil or nameless brand container mixes risks pathogens and nutrient deficiency; container gardening is one of the few cases where it truly pays to properly invest in your soil quality up front.

Additionally, if growing in raised beds, you still need to fertilize, add organic matter, and so on, on a yearly basis, in order to maintain the soil health; it's not a "set and forget" option.

The vast majority of plants can be container grown as long as your containers are deep enough to hold enough soil for each plants needs, filled with the correct soil mixture (if growing per pot), and drain well.

Researching plants of interest so that you understand their needs and can plan accordingly before you actually buy them is in your best interests to save money and energy. This is especially true when considering container Gardening's space (and other) constraints.

Management is easiest when you select plants with similar needs and conditions, and plant them together.

Class 6: Vegetable Gardening; The Benefits of Vegetable Gardens + Planning A Garden

The benefits of vegetable and food gardening are complex and multifold- including, but not limited to:

• Fresh food availability throughout the year
• Knowledge of your food's origin and method of growth
• The ability to preserve and extend the shelf life of your food
• Increased food security as a result of all of the above
• Family and community connectivity
• Personal exercise of both body and mind
• Increased natural awareness and mindfulness
• Increased variety and excitement to one's routine
• Curiosity fulfilment through nature

When planning a garden consider the following things:

1. What is the garden for: Is if for recreation and entertainment? For food? or Education?
2. What will you grow: If it is a food garden, will you grow vegetables or herbs? If it is recreational, is it a walking garden or a sitting one and how will that affect your plant choice? If it is educational, what will be the focus of your education?
3. Where will is be located: Is it a public garden on public land? A private garden? How close to your resources will it be located- or what travel will be necessary to provide resources to the site?
4. What resources will be available: Tools, Building Materials, Labor, Water, Sunlight, Soil, and so on are all resources that must be considered.
5. Who will help you manage the space: Will you do it on your own, or have help? How often will they be able to help? Are they dependable? Do you have backup plans if thy can't help you?

Consider the size of the space that you're planting in (vs) What you need to achieve your goals for the garden (vs) What you have the labor, resources, and energy to actually manage.

All of your answers will impact one another, so be prepared for your answers to change as you continue to flesh out each facet of your idea and what you want to achieve.

Plan well by being realistic about what you can conceivably achieve with your space, time, and energy.

In other words: Don't oversize your space. Don't overplant your beds. And don't overwork yourself; sometimes it is better to under calculate at first and allow yourself some room to grow into.

Also consider that Community Gardens will be much different (and much more difficult) to plan, create, and maintain than a personal garden.

Community Gardens often benefit far more that personal gardens from automated systems- such as a timed, automated drip irrigation system- than a personal garden will be, despite their high upfront costs of investment. Especially if labor is unreliable or location is difficult.

Both Community Gardens and Home / Personal Gardens have more flexibility, and can achieve more, than Commercial Growers.

Class 6: Vegetable Gardening; Garlic Processing & Storage

Do not break over the tops of Garlic and Onions to "encourage bulbing". This is an Old Wives' Tale; in reality, the stalks will typically fall over naturally when they are ready to harvest, as they have reached their maximum growth.

Trim the roots off. Then trim the stalks to 2 to 3 inches (or 3 to 5 inches if you plan to braid later; never trim lower than a half inch, however). Move them into a dry, shaded area with good ventilation to hang dry; do not leave them in the sun to dry, as they will get sunburnt.

They are ready for braiding and / or storage when the first 2 to 3 layers of skin are papery-fine and crispy (about 3 weeks in most climates- but up to 6 in humid regions); they should keep at 65°f to 80°f in average humidity for several months depending on the variety.

Class 6: Vegetable Gardening; A Few Minor Notes On Seeds

Fewer Seed Companies exist today than in the past, placing the control and distribution of seeds into far more limited hands and reducing seed availability- especially for at risk and lesser known varieties.

Heirloom plants are Open Pollinated; open pollination seeds can be saved and will germinate true to type (as long as they have not cross-pollinated with a different variety).

Hybrid seeds will not germinate true to type. They will always either revert to one of the parent varieties or continue to hybridize depending on additional factors (including cross-pollination).

Class 1 (Plant Biology 101) + Class 6 (Vegetable Gardening) Cover Crops; Aggregated Notes

True cover crops are crops planted for the sole purpose of returning organic matter and nutrition to the soil. They do not get harvested; if you harvest a cover crop, it is not a cover crop.

Grasses provide a lot of organic matter, while legumes fix nitrogen; a combination of the two seeded together acts as the perfect cover crop.

Cover Cropping and Soil Sterilization both unfortunately remove the ability to garden in the location for one season, up to a full year, depending on the intensity.

If you know ahead of time that you won't be gardening that season, the best thing you can do is to plant a cover crop. This naturally protects and preserves the soil, and increases its nutrition and quality for the next time you do plant.

Class 7: Woody Ornamentals; Hortitherapy

You don't always have to promote bird and pollinator friendly plants. It's ok to have plants just for "you" value; sometimes it's ok to consider people over animals.

Seeking year-round beauty helps our mental health.

Don't settle for anything less than year-round beauty; life's too short for anything less and the higher price is often worth it for your mental health.

Touch plants! It's still legal!

Class 7: Woody Ornamentals; Commentary on People

You typically know within 60 seconds if someone has a "green thumb" [Read: Has any legitimate education and skill in gardening] or not, based on what they say. And that often tells you what plants to recommend to them.

If they really have no green thumb [Read: You've suggested all the no-fuss plants you typically can't kill, and they've still managed to kill them all], maybe recommend a true Bottle Tree!

The world needs a better sense of humor.

We have to remember we're "above-average" [Read: Trained and Educated] people who work with, and for, average people [Read: Untrained, Unskilled, and often Inexperienced].

With 0.5% of the population, anything you say will be used against you in "Kangaroo Court".

It's so easy to offend people; you want to be right- but at what cost? It's all about getting along with people.

You will always find people who will take the exception and use it to make a monster out of you. But it's not our job to talk about the exceptions. It's our job to talk about the average.

All we can really do is just talk averages.

Life's too short to agree on everything; there's a lot of reasons not to be elitist about other people's plants [Read: Plants from other countries; non-natives].

Multi-Class Aggregate Notes on Plant Susceptibilities & Their Management Techniques

Pin Oaks and Red Oaks are susceptible to Iron Chlorosis if the soil PH raises above 7.0- a common problem in Oklahoma as our soil PH falls naturally between 6 and 7; they can tolerate a PH as low as 5.5, and to 6.5 at highest, but higher PH levels reduce their ability to absorb Iron into their system appropriately.

• Swift management requires Iron Injection Treatments at the base of the tree by a certified Arborist, once every 2 to 3 years depending on the severity of the Chlorosis and the PH of the soil.
• While soil PH does naturally lower over time, intentional soil management with elemental sulfur, aluminum sulfate, or sulfuric acid to reduce soil PH overall, however, should be heavily considered if you want to preserve the tree properly.

Strawberries and Beans are also highly susceptible to various types of Chlorosis.

• Amend soil with proper nutrients as necessary as shown by soil testing, to treat the appropriate type of Chlorosis exhibited.

Violets are some of the most difficult to manage or eradicate once escaped from cultivation. The best time of the year to attack them with targeted Broadleaf Herbicide treatments is during the fall then the rhizomes are actively storing nutrients to overwinter.

• Violets and African Violets should not be confused in terms of edibility; Violets are edible. African Violets are not.
• Their eradication and management techniques are roughly the same.

Knockout brand Roses are particularly susceptible to Rose Rosette Virus.

• Rose Rosette is systematic and incurable (despite people claiming they have cured it). The only recourse is to remove the Rose fully and to properly dispose of it.

Phlox, Verbena, Zinnia, and Mexican Zinnia are all susceptible to Powdery Mildew.

• Resistant cultivars of all species exist.

Pines are incredibly sensitive to any changes in soil quality, structure, and depth, and can be killed easily (and quickly) by upsetting any of these three factors.

• If you have a Pine Tree, do not plant or disturb the soil around it, at least out to the edge of its canopy at minimum, in order to best avoid damaging or upsetting it.

Silver Maples are one of the most notorious ornamental trees known for their incredibly destructive shallow, fibrous root systems- which are not easily controlled or managed. River Birch is similar in root behavior and structure, but less well known due to its less ornamental nature. Management options are the same for both.

• If the tree is already causing destruction, the only recourse is to remove the tree and apply stump treatments.
• Best case scenario, if you really want the tree, choose your site carefully and opt for spaces along no known underground or aboveground structures of any kind (including raised or other forms of garden beds, as their roots can and will grow vertically into structures above ground).

Trumpet Vine is native to the United Stated in most areas, but its highly aggressive growth pattern can make it a high nuisance plant with invasive qualities- especially when improper varieties are planted. It is incredibly difficult to eradicate because, similar to Japanese Honeysuckle (a true Invasive), eradication requires removal of the full Mother Root or it will continue to grow back.

• Selectively and carefully apply a Broadleaf Herbicide treatment to fresh shoots as they appear.
• Follow fresh shoots to the mother root underground and uncover as much of it as possible. Simply pull it all out by hand and pray you got it all.
• Follow fresh shoots to the mother root underground and uncover as much of it as possible. Apply a standard cut stump treatment through fresh cuts in the root.

The reduction of Fairy Rings is both cost inefficient and time ineffective.